In rural culture, fagioli all’uccelletto has always been considered a true main course, or a “filling” as our grandparents would say: a completely plant-based dish that captures the flavors and aromas of Florentine culinary tradition.
An important 19th-century cookbook records the recipe as “fagiuoli a guisa d’uccellini” referring to the flavorings implied in the recipe (particularly sage), traditionally used to flavor roasted birds, typical game meat of Tuscan peasant tradition. Whether we like it or not, Tuscans have a very particular humor that is also reflected in their cooking, demonstrating their rascality: initially this dish was called fagioli all’uccelletto scappato (runaway bird) to mock those who could not afford that type of meat but still wanted to cook a hearty dish.
Over time, the name has been shortened, leaving posterity to puzzle over the meaning of that ancient term: from fagioli all’uccelletto, indeed, one would expect a stew paired with a roast or some animal protein. Instead, we are faced with an ahead-of-one-time side dish that makes the most beloved legumes of Tuscany utterly irresistible. Not coincidentally, an old singson goes Florentine bean eater….
Traditionally, fagioli all’uccelletto are prepared with cannellini beans, but there are several local variations, such as borlotti beans, schiaccioni beans from Pietrasanta, and Lamon beans. However, an ingredient remains steady: the use of sage is essential!
The recipe for fagioli all’uccelletto
At Poggio al Bosco, fagioli all’uccelletto were often prepared because they were grown right in the garden, ensuring a plentiful supply. This hearty dish could feed everyone, young and old alike, and was a satisfying alternative to red or game meat when times were tougher or the uncles’ early morning hunt didn’t yield good results. The sausage was only added during the season when they processed the pork—always a celebratory time! Nonna Maria would begin soaking the beans the night before, so she could stove them early in the morning to be ready by “i’ tocco,” in other words for lunchtime. Before lighting the stove, she’d pick a few sage leaves and some late-season, slightly bruised tomatoes from the garden, as they were softer and plumper. Mamma Donatella has always followed this original recipe and often adds sausage to the beans during harvest season, making it a hearty and flavorful meal for those working in the fields all day long.
Ingredients
- Dried cannellini beans 250 g
- Peeled tomatoes 300 g (or a tablespoon of preserves)
- Garlic 2 cloves
- Sage
- Extra-virgin olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste.
Procedure
Firstly, boil the beans (previously soaked overnight, if dry) over low heat and let them cool in the cooking water. In a frying pan, heat in 6 tablespoons of evo oil, the crushed garlic with the peel, and a few sage leaves.
Before the garlic takes on color, add the tomatoes (or the preserves dissolved in a cup of hot water), season with salt and pepper, and let simmer for about 15 minutes.
Then, add the drained and still-warm beans and let them season for another quarter of an hour, turning with a wooden spoon. In the end, the beans should be thick, but not flaky. Finally, season with a good grinding of fresh black pepper and a generous swirl of our extra virgin olive oil.
Tips
An essential tip, passed down by homemakers and cooks alike, is to prepare and serve *fagioli all’uccelletto* in an earthenware pot.
This dish is incredibly versatile, perfect even for those who embrace a completely plant-based diet. You can easily serve it as a main course alongside slices of toasted Tuscan bread rubbed with garlic, otherwise, if you’re looking for a creative and tasty gluten-free alternative, try pairing it with freshly cooked polenta while it’s still soft, or serve it grilled or roasted. Simple touches like these, combined with top-quality ingredients, elevate even the simplest dishes, which is why they leave a lasting mark on tradition.
In Florentine pubs, it’s not uncommon to find this dish served in small bowls as a tasty accompaniment for aperitifs or light meals—a great idea to replicate at home! And don’t forget: be generous with the sage!
Pairing
Fagioli all’uccelletto is a classic warm dish from farming families, and especially in its version with sausage, it calls for a full-bodied red wine. Therefore, our Spaziale, true to its name, is an out-of-this-world pairing! Its fruity notes and elegant tannins balance perfectly the richness of the sausage, the savory tang of the tomatoes, and the buttery texture of the beans.
